Build This Simple DIY Truck Camper for $1,500

Weatherizing your truck cap

Every shelter needs to be protected from the outdoors. No one enjoys raindrops splashing on them when they’re trying to sleep or waking up in a cold, damp space. When we purchased our A.R.E. DCU truck cap, we didn’t have all the materials to seal or secure it to our f250, George. We placed the utility cap over the truck bed, used two clamps on the passenger side to secure it down, screwed in a bolt on the driver side, and called it a day. Because we’ve never had a truck before, we didn’t know it would need to be weatherized; you live and learn

Once we decided to convert George into a truck camper to travel with our tiny home, Virginia Blue, weatherizing and securing the truck cap came in at the top of our list. 

Materials needed for this project:

• Camper mounting tape
• 1.5” long bolts with 3/8" threading
• 3/8” locking nuts
• Washers for bolts

Tools needed for this project:

• Hammer drill with 3/8” socket; used to tighten bolt and nut
• 3/8” wrench; used to tighten bolt and nut

Step 1: Apply adhesive to your truck cap

First, spread out a blanket that’s bigger than your truck.

Next, have someone help you flip the truck cap upside-down and lay it down gently on the blanket.

Apply adhesive truck bed insulation tape around the entire bottom of the truck cap, except for the rear hatch. If you cover the hatch area you won’t be able to open and close your tailgate easily. You may want to add a few layers of tape to the bulkhead to ensure nothing gets in or out.

Step 2: Mount truck cap on truck bed

Open the tailgate to your pickup truck. Have someone help you flip the truck cap right side up and carefully place it onto the pickup truck bed. Make sure the truck cap sits evenly on both sides of the truck bed.

Step 3: Secure truck cap with bolts

Get yourself into the back of the truck bed and bring two aluminum hardware clamps with you.

Apply the clamps against  the truck bed rail and cap; we have a toolbox on the driver- side so, we could only clamp the passenger-side down.

Next, drill three holes on both sides of the truck cap about 24” to 30” apart. There may already be holes in your truck cap, but don’t be afraid to drill new ones if you need to. We have a 6.5’ bed, so if yours is longer then you may want to drill a fourth hole.

Next, place a washer on each bolt and place in the hole you drilled. Once all bolts are in place, screw in the locking nuts to secure the truck cap in place.

Next, determine if there’s a hole near the right rear tail light assembly for the wiring of your truck cap taillight. If there’s not, then you may need to drill a small hole. 

Step 4: Wire brake light

Remove the taillight assembly from the truck cap to locate the wiring. Find the wire and make an incision, strip the casing, and butt connect the high mount brake light.

Pull back a piece of insulation from the brake wire and connect the high mount stoplight wire to the truck’s brake wire. 

Connecting the brake light is a tedious process, one we had help with to ensure we didn’t mess up George’s wiring. If you want further assistance on how to do this, then head to YouTube and type in “wiring truck cap tail light”.

And there you go! Now you have a weatherproofed truck cap. Now you’re ready to start the rest of the transformation. 

Installing a truck BedRug liner

Every shelter needs to have a comfortable space (or, at least it should). We thought about making something, like custom cushions, but what we really wanted is something that molds to the design of our specific truck bed.

We did some research on Google for “comfortable truck bed floors” and low and behold, we found the BedRug Bedliner, a solution practically made for our project. A BedRug solved our needs, as it has the look and comfort of carpet, yet is super tough and can withstand any harsh elements you throw its way; not even battery acid could phase it. Plus, it’s made with 3/4” foam, similar to that of life jackets, so it does not absorb liquid.

Materials needed for this project:

• BedRug
• Bedliner kit
• BedRug
• VELCRO

Tools needed for this project:

• Hammer drill
• Tie down hooks (may be a son-of-a-gun to remove)
• Small knife(used to poke holes to install tie down hooks over BedRug)

Step 1: Remove current bed liner (if necessary)

If your truck bed has a bed liner, then you’ll need to remove it. We had a Rugged Bed Liner which came with our truck when we purchased it.

The Rugged Bed Liner is a bit rigid--it’s made from a solid piece of plastic–and was installed without any bolts. we tried our best to yank it out from under the bed rails without breaking or tearing it. This way, you might be able to make a few dollars by posting it to Craigslist (we ended up getting $50 dollars for it).

Step 2: Remove tie down hooks

Once everything is removed from the back of the truck bed, remove the four tie down hooks in each corner and clean out the truck bed. If you have an older truck, then these tie down hooks will be in there pretty tight.

Step 3: Clean truck bed

If you want the BedRug to install properly, then make sure you’re starting with a clean truck bed. Sweep all debris and dust out and spray with a hose. 

Step 4: Put the BedRug together

Remove the BedRug from the box and read the installation instructions (pretty basic stuff). First, zip the BedRug together. Take your time with this step as the BedRug has been folded up and the zipper may take a few times to follow its track.

Step 5: Place BedRug in its position in the truck

Pull the BedRug into its secured position. It's kind of an awkward piece to get in there so Justin had to crawl underneath the BedRug and yank it towards the bulkhead.

It’s important to note that you should not start placing VELCRO down until you’re sure the BedRug is the correct fit and you’re satisfied with where it’s placed. While VELCRO is removable, it’s not fun to install and you don’t want to lose your cool and start kicking things.

Step 6: Apply velcro to BedRug and truck bed

Start applying the VELCRO strips throughout the truck bed per the instructed areas. We placed the VELCRO strips in the following order:

• Floor
• Bulkhead
• Tailgate
• Sidewalls

Once all pieces are placed in the specified areas, select an area (from above) and pull the BedRug back keeping it from contact with the truck bed, remove the adhesive protective film and carefully place the BedRug into its secured position. 

Wash, rinse, and repeat this process until all areas are completed.

Step 7: Make sure everything's in tact

Make sure to do a once or twice over across all areas, checking that the adhesive was applied and make sure that everything is secure.

Step 8: Reinstall tie down hooks

Pull back the VELCRO in the areas where the tie down hooks are located to determine proper position. Cut two small holes for the screws in each location, then re-install the VELCRO so the BedRug is in its secured position and screw in each tie down.

Note: To save yourself time with the next project, make sure to flip the tie down on the back driver-side of the truck bed. If you forget this step, the Swing Case won’t close. We learned this through troubleshooting during the next project.

You’re done! Now you can sit back and enjoy your new comfortable truck bed. We actually hung out in the back of the truck bed the rest of the afternoon. 

Installing a reclaimed wood wall

Ever since we decided to convert our truck, George, into a functional living space, we dreamt of a reclaimed wood wall. Not only would it cover the industrial makeup of our A.R.E DCU truck cap, but it would also create that homey feel of being in a cabin.

There’s nothing pretty about the interior of a DCU truck cap. It’s built for function, not style. The layout is basically a blank canvas, which lends itself to endless creative possibilities; the driver side toolbox has a flat surface and the ceiling and side walls are made up of 1” thick square aluminum. With the right mindset, the interior could be seen as framing, similar to that  of a house. It’s a perfect setup for a reclaimed wood covering.

While cruising through Facebook, we came across our friends’, Samantha and Rob, stunning lake house rental project in Maine. They were using this beautiful reclaimed wood throughout the house and we saw they tagged this company called Maine Heritage Timber. Excited to learn more, we talked to them about the reclaimed wood product and they explained that Maine Heritage offers many different varieties, including a thin reclaimed wood option with a peel-and-stick backing for easier installation–this is exactly what we’re looking for.

Additionally, they explained that Maine Heritage’s products are made with preserved growth timber and reclaimed wood from the bottom of the Penobscot River (the byway that once made Bangor, Maine “the lumber capital of the world”).This is the type of history and product that George would be proud to be outfitted with. We checked out Maine Heritage’s site and learned that they offer free samples, so we put in a request.

Once we received the reclaimed wood samples, we fell in love. What’s interesting about Maine Heritage’s thin peel-and-stick product, Timberchic, is it comes in many different sizes (width and length) and colors.

Materials needed for this project:

• 1 box of 3” timberchic; used to cover the bulkhead
• 1 box of 5” timberchic; used to cover the toolbox
• 1” thick sponge neoprene stripping

Tools needed for this project:

• Dremel tool with saw blade; used to cut wood
• Painters tape; used to make straight cuts
• Sheet of printer paper; used to make angle

Step 1: Install Timberchic on toolbox

Peeling-and-stick one plank at a time to cover the flat toolbox surface. Start at one end and work your way to the other end.  It’s like a game of Tetris.

Before installing each plank, make note of the holes in the wood and place the circular black stickers that come with the wood in these spots to cover the white of the toolbox.

We were pleasantly surprised with how sticky the adhesive tape took to the aluminum surface it was placed on. The only way this wood is coming off is if you break it.

Once you reach the bulkhead, you’ll need to cut the Timberchic pieces to match the tailgate end. We used a Dremel for this, as the reclaimed wood is about 1/8” thick and we wanted to treat the wood with care.

To make this process easier, measure where the plank will be cut before installing on toolbox and use painters tape to make a straight line. To finish the toolbox section, start by folding an angle on a sheet of paper on the far left wall. You’ll use this to mark the Timberchic and make a cut that fits flush with the wall. This may sound make-shift, but it works.

Once you use the paper to make your first cut, use this wood panel as a template to place painters tape on the remaining pieces to be cut; all angles are the same on the tail gate and bulkhead.

The only areas that will need extra cuts will be the bottom and top planks. You’ll have to cut a 90-degree angle slice out of the wood to fit in smoothly. 

Step 2: Outline bulkhead with stripping adhesive

Again, the reclaimed wood is fairly thin, so the insulation tape provides a cushioned backing for support so it won’t break if pressure is applied to it. Spread the stripping out on the lower part of the truck cap and the sides, no more than 5” apart. Too much of a gap will create a weak spot, increasing the chance of the wood breaking if pressure is applied to it.

Step 3: Install Timberchic on bulkhead

Per our earlier notes, the make-shift measurement we took at the back of the toolbox will be the same for the bulkhead installation. The only difference is the top plank will need to be rounded off.

You'll notice there's about 1 1/4" gap between the top reclaimed wood panel and the roof. This is because you’ll be installing industrial strength VELCRO for the bulkhead curtain. Plus, the serape blanket ceiling will cover this up anyway.

We decided not to place reclaimed wood on the underside of the toolbox, as we want to leave our options open in the future for a shelving unit. And there you have it! A reclaimed wood wall for your truck camper living area. 

Installing a Ceiling cover and curtains

Of all the projects to help transform our f250 into a truck camper, the ceiling cover and curtains process was by far the most tedious, yet rewarding. However, if you want the job done right, the first time, then you need a steady, caring touch and a lot of patience.

The first time around, we’ll admit, we rushed installing the curtains and ceiling cover. We have had some setbacks that kept us from our deadline, but were determined to finish on time. Doing so, we didn’t have the patience to complete a project well and our mistakes slowly crept up to bite us.

Our biggest mistake and regret which led to us having to redo everything; gluing as we installed as opposed to letting the glue dry for 24-48 hours. The glue seemed to dry fast enough, so we thought It would be okay. We thought wrong. Additionally, we didn’t apply enough glue in the areas that needed it. While this mistake was 50% patience, 50% DIY newb learnings, it’s something that we may have noticed if we were working with more of a caring touch.

If you want results that you’re proud to have your name attached to, then you need to give it the time and care it deserves. Justin was reminded of this when walking back from lunch one day with one of his colleagues who told him to practice patience. Even though this was not a new concept, it’s important to be reminded. It’s as if we were in our corner during a boxing match, having lost sight of our end goal, and had the words we needed to get our head back in the fight.

We’re telling you this before we share this DIY project, because we want you to learn from our mistakes. We all have obstacles that make us pivot and adjust to reach our end goal. In the words of the great Red Auerbach, “be quick, but don’t hurry.” Say this to yourself whenever you’re up against a deadline and you’re feeling it slip away from you.

Materials needed for this project:

• Two Mexican serape blankets (blanket actual sizing: 56” x 78”)
• Four bottles of Beacon Fabri-Tac Permanent Adhesive (you’ll have some left over which will come in handy for other projects)
• Four boxes–or 60 feet–of black industrial Strength VELCRO (you’ll have some left over which will come in handy for other projects)

Tools needed for this project:

• Fabric-cutting shears; used to cut blankets
• Non-fabric-cutting shears; used to cut VELCRO strips
• Disposable gloves; used to protect hands from Fabric-Tac
• Flexible measuring tape; used to make measurements
• Sharpie

Step 1: Measure the interior of the truck bed

Before purchasing any of the above materials, measure the interior of your truck cap: length, width, and height (truck bed rails to the floor). Our A.R.E. DCU utility truck cap is outfitted with 1” aluminum framing, so we measured the length and width of each aluminum rail.

To make it easier on yourself, we recommend using a flexible measuring tape. This way you can move around with ease, as the working area can be tight.

Step 2: Make a simple measurement

Using the measurements of the truck bed interior, draw a simple pattern of your design with a pen and paper. Measure everything again to make sure the pattern dimensions are correct. If everything checks out, then you’re ready to purchase your materials.

Final thought; there will be two aluminum rail cutouts for the bulkhead curtain to fit into place. This is the only area that will require you to cut into the blanket, as seen below.

Step 3: Clean the interior of the truck cap

Whether your truck cap is used or new, clean the area where you’re going to apply the VELCRO strips. In this case, the VELCRO is going to cover all ceiling rails as well as the curved side rails leading up to the access door(s). This is an important step as a dirty truck cap can impact the bond of the VELCRO.

Step 4: Cut the VELCRO strips and install in truck cap

Use the measurements from your pattern to cut precise VELCRO strips. Try to be as exact as you can, as the longer the strip the stronger it’ll be. Tip: Because this is industrial strength VELCRO, make sure to use the rough side–also known as the hook–on the ceiling. This way the softer side applied to the blanket–also known as the loop–won’t stick to the BedRug floor.

Regarding the curved aluminum area, the VELCRO won’t stick here very well (learned that the hard way). Instead of cutting one long strip of VELCRO for the aluminum rail, cut the VELCRO just before the curve and cut 3” pieces of VELCRO that attach to the side of the railing. This will help reinforce the grip and keep the blanket from sagging around the curve.

Remember, the VELCRO strips are 2” wide, but the the aluminum framing sizing varies. This means you’ll need to cut the strips according to each area it will be applied. The cuts don’t need to be exact, but try and cut as straight a line as you can.

To make this process easier, try and find two measurements that are somewhat equal, like the length-wise aluminum framing from the bulkhead to the tailgate. This way one cut will equal two installations (with the addition of minor cuts if needed).

Once all the aluminum rails are dry, outline each railing with the cut-to-size VELCRO strips. 

Step 5: Cut blankets and apply VELCRO strips

Mark up the blankets with a Sharpie based on the pattern measurements:

• Areas to be cut
• Application of the loop-sided VELCRO to attach the blanket to the hook-sided

Make sure the side you mark up is the side that will be facing the ceiling.

We used one blanket for the roof and one blanket for the curtains (the tailgate curtain attached to the ceiling curtain to make up for the 6” ceiling gap). Try and mark cuts that preserve the blanket's edges. This way you’ll reduce having to glue seams.

Tip: Be extra careful with your blanket edge cuts. The blankets can become frayed if they go without glue for long. Use the Fabri-Tac to glue your seams.

Here is a good technique to adopt for a longer-lasting bond between the VELCRO and the blanket; spread out the Fabri- Tac glue on the adhesive side of the VELCRO before placing on the blanket. Once placed, add Fabri-Tac glue around the sides of the VELCRO. This will strengthen the bond between the blanket and VELCRO.

DO NOT skimp on the above step when applying the VELCRO to the blankets. Remember, practice patience and make sure your VELCRO is good and bonded to your blankets. Once all the glue is applied, let it sit for up to 48 hours. Once dried, tug on all the areas of the VELCRO and make sure it's on there to stay. If you find an area that needs an extra caring touch, then help it out with some Fabri-Tac.

Once you feel good about the VELCRO-to-blanket bond, you're ready to install.

Step 6: Install your blanket cutouts

Start by installing your bulkhead blanket.  Attach the blanket's VELCRO to its counterpart at the top of the bulkhead. Next, install the ceiling cover. Start by attaching the VELCRO to its counterpart on the toolbox-side strip that extends from the bulkhead to the tailgate.

Next, Attach the middle intersecting VELCRO strip to its counterpart. Then attach the remaining VELCRO strips to their counterparts. Installing the blanket roof in this way will help reduce excess sag, keeping the blanket taught and in place.

Lastly, install the tailgate curtain. Start by connecting the blanket ends where the VELCRO hook and loop meet to complete the ceiling cover. Connect the blanket to the aluminum framing above the tailgate. Make sure the blanket is nice and tight from the adjoining ceiling-to-tailgate connection.

Next connect the VELCRO adjoining strips to their counterparts above the tail gate and let the blanket hang down to the floor. 

And there you have it. Making use of a blanket as curtains and a ceiling cover in your truck camper project. 

Installing an off-grid electrical system

Installing an UnderCover SwingCase

Our A.R.E DCU truck cap has a tool box on the driver side that extends the entire length of the truck cap. From tools and supplies to personal items, the tool box is a helpful addition and a very wise use of space. However, this storage area can only be accessed from the outside.

If you plan on sleeping and hanging out in the truck bed, then you’re going to need storage inside the truck. Our truck bed storage goal was twofold: something small and out of the way that can also serve as a cooler (like a short- term ice box).

 After going to the all-mighty Google to find options, we found our unicorn; the UnderCover Swing Case. This beaut is exactly what we were looking for, and more.

• Tucks away to the side of the truck bed next to the wheel well
• Has a lever that, when pulled, swings out the case
• Doubles as a cooler
• Can be removed easily to tote around
• Holds up to 75 pounds

While the installation of the Swing Case is a fairly simple process, having a BedRug Bedliner, which is about 3/4” thick, makes this process a little more tedious. 

Materials needed for this project:

• UnderCover Swing Case kit

Tools needed for this project:

• Electric screw gun with 7/16 inch socket (used to screw bolts into truck bed)

Step 1: Connect mounting brackets

Screw the mounting brackets together, making a capital “T” shape on its side.

Step 2: Mount bracket to side of trucks

This is where things get tricky. The Swing Case doesn’t account for the 3/4” thick BedRug. We mounted the brackets several times and the lock just wouldn’t catch.

To make this work, you need to apply pressure to the mounting bracket, pushing it against the back of the tail light and the floor, and screw in the top and bottom screws. Don’t install all of the screws, in case you need to adjust positioning.

Next, slightly bend out the base of the mounting bracket. This helps realign the bracket, so once you secure it to the side of the truck bed, it’ll be straighter.

Step 3: Ensure SwingCase locks in closed position

Mount the Swing Case on the bracket and test shutting it in the locked position under the wheel well. When trying to secure the Swing Case in its locked position, apply pressure as if you were shutting your tailgate. If it catches, then you’re golden. 

Step 4: Finish screwing in mounting bolts

Once you’re confident the Swing Case will stay in its locked position, remove it from its mount and screw in the remaining base mounting screws.

And there you have it. Now, you’re effectively utilizing the dead space under the toolbox next to the wheel well for storage.

Looking back, our truck camper conversion was one of the best, most rewarding projects of our lives. We’re beyond satisfied with the finished product and even happier that it was something we did (and completed) ourselves. We hope this guide helps inspire you to follow your dreams. Life is too short not to spend it doing something you love. Remember:

• Be patient. It will pay off in the long.
• Be quick, but don’t hurry. Make sure to take the time to do it right the first time.
• Enjoy the process. Every project is a milestone that should be celebrated.
• Do one project at a time. Don’t bite off more than you can Stay focused on the project at hand.
• Don’t give up. Do what you can to keep yourself motivated. We believe in you.
• Start today. Don’t put your dreams on hold. There’s no better time than to start right now.

Even when you finish your truck camper conversion, the project is never really done. There’s always something that can be added, tweaked, or improved. Because we are constantly thinking of the next idea, we have a few projects that we’re already thinking of to take George to the next level.

Foam bed/couch: We’re currently using cushions from Virginia to serve as our bed in George. We’ll be buying new cushions for Virginia, so next step is cut to size the old ones to fit the dimensions of the truck bed. This will make it more comfortable and easy to set up. 

Truck bed storage containers: There’s still space between the wheel wells that can be utilized. Next step is to get some storage boxes to fit between the cushions and wall.

Organize the toolbox: The toolbox area is so valuable. We learn this the more we go camping. Currently, the toolbox is outfitted with a hodgepodge of tools and supplies. Next step is to organize the tool box to include: 

• Emergency roadside kit
• Small propane heater/grill
• Cooking supplies (utensils, plates, spices, silverware, )
• Flexible hose
• Campfire supplies (fire poker, small axe, )
• Tarp(s)
• Overnight supplies (towels, toothbrush, soap, )

You never know when the mood will strike to go adventuring. Being prepared will make it that much easier.